Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
